Ian Jack: Sugar coats this hunger for the past
Against all anti-sugar orthodoxy, the begin the day of the cupcake seems unstoppable. Trustworthy facts are hard to fingers on by, but market research suggests that British cupcake sales in 2008-2009 grew by 22% to top the flapjack as the nearest rival to the biscuit in the market for sugar-egg-flour-butter mixtures that have been baked. Who knows? The more unchanging indicator is their visibility. Until a few years ago, the cupcake was mainly confined to expert London boutiques that arranged them in their window in eye-catching bias contrasts. Now they can be found at supermarkets, bring-and-buy sales, farmers' markets, children's parties and wherever two happy young women have been given permission to set up a stall. They can be arranged in tiers as association cakes – special holders are widely ready – and now figure as symbols on dress patterns, wallpaper and all kinds of girly novelties. A test of strength that the for-once-aptly-named Lord Sugar set his junior apprentices earlier this summer was to push cupcakes to shoppers in Selfridges, after first smearing their tops with a the high seas layer of icing. No actual baking was required – firm to Lord Sugar means selling, not craft – but not any compassionate of cakes, notice: cupcakes.
"Retro-chic" is often set as a key element of their appeal. "There is an alternative reality being constructed by people here," Dr Gavin Smith, a sociologist at Conurbation University in London, speculated to the BBC last year. "It's about mixing the old with the new – the nostalgic and the of the time … It could be about the legacy of heritage. People are trying to be conditioned on to a recipe that was sacred, that granny used to make."
Quick breads are perfect for summer living
Instantaneous breads -- old-fashioned, fast-rising breads that get their leavening by baking licence or soda rather than yeast -- are a baker's delight, singularly in summer when the livin' is easy and farm stands and markets are overflowing with prime ingredients like seasonal berries, fruits and vegetables.
Biscuits, scones, muffins and even pancakes be defeated into the quick bread category, and we often find the word "tea" in the title -- recollect Banana Tea Bread -- and nuts as an addition -- Rendezvous and Nut Bread is a classic.
Tradition aside, at this time of year, look beyond shortcake and smoothies and commingle strawberries and pecans in an easy-as-pie strawberry bread that's got color and grind. Come mid-summer, when the annual bumper crop of zucchini arrives, fantasize bread again in a quick loaf dense with grated zucchini and chopped pistachios.
Lemon bread, a luminous loaf reminiscent of an old-fashioned pound cake, can be a year-spheroidal favorite. But when it's glazed with sweet-tart lemon syrup, it's a colorful way to liven up up a summer supper, picnic or garden party. To impede crumbling, and for easier slicing, make these breads a day forwards.
• 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon instruct cinnamon
• 2 large eggs, beaten
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